Bhutan 11D10N Itinerary | Part 2

Circling back to Part 2 of our journey, we hit the road bright early in the day to make our way down to Paro. As a recap, I planned my trip with Dragon Trails Tours and had a fantastic experience. Before you fly, don’t forget to check out my guide on all you need to know before visiting Bhutan here.

This is the breakdown of my itinerary:

Day 1: Arrive in Paro and drive to Thimphu

Day 2: Thimphu

Day 3: Thimphu > Dochula Pass > Punakha

Day 4: Punakha

Day 5: Punakha > Bumthang

Day 6-7: Bumthang

Day 8: Bumthang > Phobjikha

Day 9: Phobjikha > Paro

Day 10: Paro (Tiger’s Nest Hike)

Day 11: Depart

Part 2 of today’s guide consists of my time in Punakha, Bumthang & Phobjikha

You can read the other parts here:

How To Visit Bhutan

Part 1: Thimphu

Part 2: Punakha, Bumthang & Phobjikha

Part 3: Hiking Tiger’s Nest

Part 4: Staying in a 5 star Hotel

Day 3: Thimphu to Punakha

Archery & Dart Match

We started our journey towards Dochula Pass but chanced upon an archery & dart match between fellow Bhutanese. Archery is the national sport of Bhutan and boy was I amazed by the immense power with each shot! It was so fast, I couldn’t even see the arrow. It was an exciting match between the men while the women were busy having a dart match on their own. Bhutanese dart matches consists of fat & heavy darts that are more power driven.

Dochula Pass

Just shy on the edge of Thimphu during your journey towards Punakha is the magnificent Dochula Pass. On clear days, you can even view an unhindered landscape of snowcapped mountains. It was a misty day during our visit but it provided the area a rustic, mystical charm. The Dochula Pass consists of 108 memorial chortens built by the Queen Mother in 2003 in honour for the fourth King.

A capture of Dochula during a snowy day featuring the stunning snowcapped Himalayas skyline

Chimmi Lhakhang (Fertility Temple)

The drive down from Dochula Pass is a bumpy one, but you will be distracted by the scenic views that Bhutan has to offer. From natural hills and valleys to occasional wild yaks nipping on the green grass, it is truly a sight to revel in.

We chanced upon some domesticated yaks during our journey

Our first stop in Punakha is Chimmi Lhakang, otherwise known as the fertility temple that is blessed by the eccentric Divine Madman. You start off with a short 30 minutes hike towards the temple which is such a jaw dropping sight to behold. The hike is across the rich rice fields while you manoeuvre between cows, wild dogs and people.

A telltale sign that you are reaching Chimmi Lhakang is when you see these phallus paintings donning the walls of the traditional buildings. Fret not, these phallus paintings are actually believed to be a sign of fertility, good luck and protection.

These beliefs came from the unorthodox teaching of Saint Drukpa Kunley, otherwise known as the “Divine Madman”. According to legends, the “Divine Madman” defeated an evil demon by subduing him with his phallus.

Women looking to be blessed for fertility often find themselves doing a pilgrimage down to Chimmi Lhakang. During our journey, we even witness a successful blessed family making their way to give thanks along with their newborn child.

Punakha Dzong

One of the most magnificent Dzong that Bhutan has to offer, Punakha Dzong is strategically perched alongside the river to give a picturesque view of the skyline. Fortunately, it was blooming season and the trees were all blooming in vibrate purples, pinks and amber flowers.

Punakha Dzong is the second oldest and second largest Dzong. It is truly a majestic structure as it glitters under the sun. Currently, it houses sacred relics, administrative offices and living quarters.

Bhutanese buildings features a traditional intricate architectural design preserved throughout history.

It is truly breathtaking to bask in such magnificence. There deep rooted history is well-preserved throughout as you venture along the walkways of the Punakha Dzong.

Zhingkham Resort

Ended the long journey from Thimphu to Punakha with a comfortable stay at Zhingkham Resort. The resort was perched right on top of the hill to give an unblocked view of Punakha Dzong in the evening. It was such a lovely stay and as per usual Bhutan’s hospitality, I had a spacious clean room and a balcony view. I ended up taking my dinner in-room in the balcony as well as I wind down for the evening.

Day 4: Punakha

As usual, we woke up bright and early to explore the deep history of Bhutan. We ventured to Khamsun Yulley Namgyel Chorten, a 25 minute drive north of Punakha. If you haven’t already noticed, Bhutan prides themselves on their stunning landscape and the best way to appreciate it is to hike! It is definitely the best way to kickstart every morning. The 1 hour hike consists of an unblocked view of Bhutan’s rice paddy fields on the dirt road and a journey across a suspension bridge.

Get ready to be rewarded by the majestic Khamsun Yulley Namgyal Choten sitting right at the top and overlooking Punakha valley. This was built by the Queen of Bhutan in 2004 and is said to help ward of evil spirits in Bhutan and across the world whilst bringing peace and harmony to all sentient beings. It took a whopping 9 years to complete as it was built in strict accordance with traditional teachings.

You can climb the 4-storey stupa and be rewarded with a breathtaking view of Punakha river snaking down the valley. We even had the opportunity to sit in one of the Buddhist blessings during our climb up.

As we descend down back to town, we took a short detour back to Punakha Dzong as it was an auspicious day. We were blessed to be in Punakha on the right day as we get to witness an auspicious scroll unveiling ceremony in the Dzong. It was a massive, intricately designed scroll that covered the entire face of one part of the building. We queued and managed to get some blessings at the foot of the scroll.

Auspicious scroll unveiling at Punakha Dzong

Longest Suspension Bridge in Punakha

Not for the faint hearted, this is the longest suspension bridge in Punakha filled with colourful prayer flags. It is very stable so you do not have to worry. Take a walk across as you admire the river and Bhutan’s natural beauty.

Punakha Flower Exhibition

Another lucky find during our visit is the flower exhibition. We were treated to an array of beautiful flower arrangements with lots of photo opportunities around. As I had bright pink hair, I also became the center of attraction and ended up taking photographs and making friends with the locals. The beauty about Bhutan is, almost everybody knows everybody. I couldn’t count the number of times both Sonam & Kencho said “hi” to someone they know. It is so interesting and I love how friendly and kind everyone is.

Day 5: Punakha To Bumthang

A bright an early day set aside just for transport. We had to take an approximately 6 hours (200+km) long drive from Punakha to Bumthang. The road was a bit bumpy but still quite smooth nonetheless judging by the mountainous terrain that we are in. Kencho was able to drive us smoothly down to Bumthang without a hitch.

The drive down Bhutan was captivating as usual, with mountainous landscape peeking through the edges of our pictures. We get to see vast greeneries, stunning clouds dotting the clear blue sky as well as traditional buildings around the area. Sonam & Kencho definitely made the car journey much more fun with their constant jokes, storytelling as well as a karoke session in the car. It felt like we were on a road trip!

Chumey Nature Resort

We reached Chumey Nature Resort at about 5.30pm and called it a day. It was a long journey and everyone deserved an early rest for what tomorrow has to offer. Chumey Nature Resort was also another pleasant stay. It had rustic wood furnishings that felt closest to a traditional Bhutanese home. There was even a patio fitted with furnishings for you to chill and relax. As I reached in the evening, it was getting a little too cold for me so I ended up resting indoors under the warmth of my blanket.

Day 6: Bumthang

I briefly mentioned to Sonam, my guide, that I wanted to wear the traditional Bhutanese dress and like a genie, he made it happen! In the morning, I was greeted with a beautiful set of handwoven Kira which he had arranged to be delivered during the previous night.

Rinchen, from Chumey Nature Resort, helped me to wear the traditional Kira which required a special way to tie since it was a large long piece of fabric.

Local Festival

Traditional festivals are rampant in Bhutan and I love it! It is so cultural and exciting to be a part of. You get to watch traditional masked folk dances, receive blessings and socialise with the locals. Bhutan festivals are rich, vibrant and full of life! You should definitely enquire with your tour agent to plan your trip to coincide with a festival. It is definitely something not to be missed.

Picnic Lunch

One of the local pastimes here is to head out for a picnic. The best time to bond and enjoy food prepared with lots of love. It was interesting that I got to fully immerse myself in the Bhutanese culture and get to experience eating a picnic lunch together with my guide & driver. We had home cooked pasta, momos, lots of chilli and hot tea to keep our bellies full in the afternoon.

Visiting Sonam’s Home

After the festivities, we took a spin down to Sonam’s home which is just right around the corner in Bumthang. I was curious to see how the locals live and when the opportunity arise, I jumped on it. Sonam’s family welcomed me warmly and his mom cooked up a storm. We had a feast of delicious curry, rice, cheese and my favourite crispy corn! It was really eye opening seeing how others live, their homes and their way of life in comparison to ours that is so cluttered and busy in the city.

I will definitely recommend including a homestay in your visit to Bhutan as you get to experience living in an actual Bhutanese home.

Sonam’s parents and their warm hospitality

Rinchenling Resort

Checked into Rinchenling Resort that very evening which had quite a similar cottage vibe with Chumey Nature Resort. Just like all the other 3-star accommodations in Bhutan, it exceeded my expectations in terms of space, cleanliness and furnishings. It was definitely a comfortable night.

Day 7: Bumthang

Burning Lake

A 30 minute drive off the beaten roads towards Ura is the Burning Lake. A scenic, breathtaking and spiritual area, it takes just a short 5 minutes walk down to visit the beautiful spot. The descend may be a tad slippery so do be careful.

Legends says that the water contained a hidden holy treasure. The sacred relics and treasure was retrieved by one of Bhutan’s most prominent religious figure, Terton Pema Lingpa, centuries ago. It was noted that he jumped into the lake holding a flaming lit butter lamp and resurfaced with the treasures and the lamp still alight.

Being physically there, you can actually breathe in the fresh & crisp air whilst listening to the freshwater gushing down the stream. The spiritual energy was strong and if feels like you are having an energy cleansing just being there. I walked away from the Burning Lake feeling so light, lifted and invigorated.

Local Festival Ura

Another lucky find for us, we chanced upon a local festival in Ura. The festival in Ura was very put together and felt more commercialised than the previous ones that I had been to. There were entrance tickets, proper seating area with shelters and a fun entertainment section outside that had games, food & beverages for people to mingle.

I definitely enjoyed travelling with Sonam & Kencho as our itinerary was so versatile and catered to what I was interested in. I wanted to visit more festivals instead of tourist spots and Sonam managed to track down nearby local festivals to make my trip memorable.

Kurje Lhakhang

One of the most holy sites in Bumthang, Kurje Lhakhang is a magnificent structure nestled on the side of a hill. It is said that Guru Rinpoche (8th century) left the imprint of his body on the solid rocks, which can be seen from inside the shrine.

As usual, due to the nature of it being a religious site, photography is prohibited out of respect. It is truly a holistic experience to immerse yourself in a different culture without the constant thought about snapping photos. Instead, we capture the best memories that are being imprinted in our minds through our sense of sight, smell and touch.

Day 8: Bumthang To Phobjikha

What was supposed to be a 6 hours journey ended up taking quite a full day for us instead. This is something that one should expect when they are travelling in Bhutan. Things may not go as planned, sometimes there may be power trips, sometimes there may be landslides.

For us, we met with an issue on the road which took almost 3 hours to clear and all we did was to mingle around and try to make the best of the time we had.

A mini friend we made on the road

Delicious packed momo lunch by Sonam's mother

The 3 hours long traffic halt

Dewachen Resort

We checked into Dewachen Resort after 10 hours on the road but I was pleasantly surprised by how comfortable the room was. It was extremely spacious, fits 2 double beds, a sitting area overlooking the valley as well as an en-suite bath. It felt like a huge comfy reward after a long arduous journey. I also enjoyed how the room had a traditional bukari (wooden stove) to keep you warm. It was such a lovely experience to live like a true Bhutanese.

We ended our day with an early rest as we planned to embark on a hike at Phobjikha at 5am the next morning.

Day 9: Phobjikha To Paro

Phobjikha Valley

Woke up bright and early for a fresh morning hike at 5am. It was extremely cold and my cardigan was definitely not enough for the weather. I totally underestimated how cold Bhutan would be. If you are travelling to Bhutan, please do read my tips here where I covered on what you need to prepare before your trip. A lightweight puffy jacket was definitely going to help if I knew about it earlier.

Nonetheless, once you get your blood pumping and start hiking, your body will slowly warm up and feel better. It was so refreshing to take morning hike. All I could hear was the callings from the insects, breathe in the crisp fresh air, and walk freely with no troubles. It was such an absolute joy to take a breather away from the usual hustle and bustle in the city.

When you reach the viewing point, it feels like you are standing in between Heaven and Earth. It is so ethereal to watch the clouds rolling down the hills, gently floating just before your eyes. It is as though as you can just touch them with your fingertips. Being in such a magnificent view makes you appreciate nature so much more. I must say, Phobjikha is by far my favourite spot in Bhutan and no trip to Bhutan is complete without a visit to this heaven.

Phobjikha To Paro

The drive down from Phobjikha was so misty, I was surprised at how well Kencho managed to manoeuvre us safely in the car through the winding roads! We managed to reach Paro after a long drive on the road and checked into the 5-star accommodation for the next two nights.

To find out more about how luxurious it is to stay in a 5-star accommodation in Bhutan, keep your eyes peeled for the upcoming posts!

Thank you for reading till the end, till then!

xx,

Winter